Wilderstein

Wilderstein was the home of the Suckley family from 1852 to 1983. Margaret Suckley, a close friend of Franklin D. Roosevelt, donated the house and grounds to the Wilderstein Preservation in 1983, which would later open the grounds to the public. It is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places.


To get to Wilderstein, go south on Route 9 and take your first right after the (one and only) traffic light in Rhinebeck. You will then be on Mill Road for 2.2 miles until you reach Morton Road. Take a right and follow the road about a quarter mile and you will see the first entrance for Wilderstein on your left. This entrance is only open when the mansion is in operation. The mansion is open May through October, Thursday to Sunday, from noon until 4 pm. It is also open during December on the weekends.


Continue down the road a few hundred yards, past the house, and you’ll see signs on your left for the dirt parking lot next to the Gate Lodge and the trails. The handicapped entrance is also over here. Park your car and walk over to the nearby information kiosk. Here you may find some useful information, including a map of the trails. Once you’ve finished here, continue on the trail.


The trails throughout Wilderstein are bordered with logs and covered in wood chips. They were planned by Calvert Vaux and his son between 1891 and 1892 at the behest of Robert Suckley. The grounds are done in the American Romantic Landscape style, which emphasized various prospect points with gazebos and seats. Although the trails are easy to follow, they do tend to get very muddy and I would recommend some sturdy shoes.


Shortly after you start down the trail, you’ll come to a T. Going left will take you to the Carriage House. We will come to this later, so head to your right. The path will slowly wind down the hill and approach a large rustic bench with a great view of the water. Off in the distance you’ll see some of the Catskill Mountains, a small island, and a lighthouse. Down at the edge of the water, past the train tracks, are where the old boathouse and dock once stood. Nearby is trail-marker 4, the Dock Master’s House Foundations.


Head down the “steps” off to the right of the bench. You’ll soon come to trail-marker 3. Behind the marker, you’ll see the quarry from which stone used in the building of the driveway and foundations was taken. There is a small stream here that flows down from the rocks and underneath a small bridge along the path.


Before the little bridge, you’ll come upon a false trail leading off to your right that goes to the railroad tracks. There are no gates preventing you from crossing the tracks here. If you choose to follow this path across and to the river, pay careful attention. The trains that move through here are fast and barely audible until they’re right on top of you. Further, you will be trespassing on Railroad property. That being said, if you do cross the tracks here, you’ll be able to reach the water and see remnants of the dock.


Once you return to the real trail and continue on, you’ll soon reach a short path on your right that takes you to Cove Point. There is another rustic bench here that allows you to relax as you gaze out upon Suckley Cove. Trail-marker 5 is also here, pointing out the petroglyph from which Wilderstein got its name. Wilderstein means “wild man’s stone,” which refers to this petroglyph figure that is holding a peace pipe in his right hand. Archaeologists have speculated that this spot may have been a holy place for Native Americans. Personally, I think they’re full of it.


The trail will follow the cove for a ways, and during the winter you will easily be able to see the water through the trees. The trail will then curve around and branch off. The branch to your left will double back and head to the Carriage House. We will meet up with this trail later on our way back to the parking lot. Take the branch headed to the right and up the hill. You will have another clear view of the Hudson and the Catskills from here.


While climbing the hill you may catch glimpses of the house through the trees to your left. You will also see a trail leading off to the left towards Umbrella Point, which we will come to later. As you near the crest you will come to trail-marker 6. This is the root cellar. Exciting stuff. At the top of the hill is the parking lot for the mansion. Follow the gravel road to your right to trail-marker 7. This is the Potting Shed built in 1890 and the Greenhouse foundation. Within sight up the road you’ll see trail-marker 8. This is the remnants of the barn, which was also used as a workshop.


Continue to follow the gravel road as it curves around towards the house. As you approach the house, you’ll see trail-marker 9 on your right which points out the rusty fence posts of the tennis court that was built in 1912. Beyond them is a gazebo.


If you wish to take a tour of the house, visit the gift shop, or use the restrooms, turn right on the gravel road and follow the signs that lead you to the base of the house. Otherwise, I encourage you to explore the area around the house in order to view both the beauty of the Queen Anne style home and the scenic views of the Hudson. On the far side of Wilderstein you will see another gazebo, which you can enter, as well as trail-marker 10 labeling the Ice House.


Once you have finished strolling about the house, walk back towards the tennis court. You’ll come upon a sign pointing you to Umbrella Point. Follow the trail back into the woods and it will lead you to a rustic bench with a wood umbrella. This spot offers another great view of the Hudson.


Retrace your steps a few yards back to the trail heading to your left and towards a bridge. When you come to a T, head to your left and down the hill. If you turn right, you’ll be headed back towards the house. You’ll soon reach yet another T, but this time take a right. This is the trail that you bypassed earlier. You are now headed towards the Carriage House. Make sure to turn to your right for a lower view of the house.


The Carriage House, a.k.a. trail-marker 2, was built in 1888. As horses gave way to automobiles, this building was turned into a garage. Although it still stands, it is in poor shape and not a very lovely building to look at.


By the Carriage House is a gravel road. The right fork will take you back to the house. Head down the left fork and you’ll soon see a trail branching off to the left into the woods. If you take this trail and take the first available right, you’ll be headed towards the parking lot. Stay on the gravel road instead, and you’ll approach the Gate Lodge (trail-marker 1). This building now houses Wilderstein’s office and is in perfect condition.


Off to your left you should be able to see the parking lot. You have now seen everything at Wilderstein and can leave the way you came.


As an end note, there are numerous ways to navigate the trails at Wilderstein, and virtually no way to get lost. My course hits all of the markers and vistas in, what I believe, is the most efficient manner. However you may find, as I have, that the trail-markers are rather boring. Whatever course you choose to take, the peacefulness and beauty of the trails and of the home will assuredly be a memorable experience.


For more information on Wilderstein, please visit http://www.wilderstein.org/. If you’d like to learn more about Margaret Suckley and her relationship with FDR, you may be interested in Geoffrey C. Ward’s book "Closest Companion". Tremendous Trailblazing!