Olana State Historic Site

Olana was the 250-acre home of Frederic Edwin Church: one of America's most important artists, a student of Thomas Cole, and a major figure in the Hudson River School of landscape painting. Church once said of his home, "Almost an hour this side of Albany is the center of the world - and I own it." Built high on a hill near Hudson, New York between 1870 and 1891, the house offers magnificent sweeping vistas of the Catskill Mountains, the Hudson River and the Taconic Hills. Olana is a New York State Historic Site and a National Historic Landmark. The park is surrounded by the Olana Viewshed, a part of the Scenic Hudson Land Trust, which attempts to limit development in the area around Olana.


To get to the park from Hyde Park, head north on Route 9G. The entrance is the on the right and heads up a steep incline. If you reach the Rip Van Winkle Bridge, you have gone to far. The park is open from 8 am to sunset.


Follow the signs as they direct you along the one-way road. Continue on the road as it passes the lake and lower parking area, and drive up the hill towards the house. Just past the house and around a bend is the upper parking lot. Park your car here and walk down the steps towards the house, pausing to note the interpretive sign with a detailed map of the grounds. You will pass nine other of these signs during your visit, each of which gives invaluable information about the area and includes a small map with a "You are here" marker.


Next to the house is a Visitor's Center. This is open everyday from 10 am to 4 pm. Inside you will find a lot of information about the house, grounds, and the Church family. There are also various pamphlets you can take, including a very helpful trail map. Further, you may want to enjoy the short film in the little theater within. Normally, you would also be able to purchase tour tickets for the home here. Unfortunately, there will be no house tour this year (2006) to allow installation of a fire suppression system. However, you can purchase tickets for a guided cultural landscape tour from now through the end of October, Tuesday through Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm. The fee is $3 per person, and free for members and children under 12.


Follow the trail as it circles close around the Persian-style house to the awe-inspiring view beyond. Spend some time here taking in both the beauty and uniqueness of the home, as well as the sweeping landscape surrounding it.


Turn to your left and continue along the trail as it passes by the Flower Garden on the right and doubles back for a different view of the home. Go right when the trail splits and you'll pass the second interpretive sign. The trail now heads down the hill, past the Flower Garden again. You can open the gate and walk through the quaint garden if you so choose. Stay on the trail as it meanders down the hill towards the third interpretive sign. It was here that Church's studio once stood. Make use of one of the many rustic benches littered about to relax as you gaze out upon the Hudson and the surrounding mountains of the Catskills.


You should now head right, following the road. After a short ways, you will see a trail to your right. This is Ridge Road, and one of the various carriage roads on the grounds. Head down this path, and you will soon see another trail to the left sloping downhill. This is Bethune Road, and its gentle, winding slope will take you all the way down to 9G. Although the trail is nice, the fact that it ends at the road makes it feel like an intrusion on the solace of Olana. Plus, you will have to retrace your steps all the way back up the hill. It's up to you whether you choose to take this quarter mile trail.


Further up Ridge Road, you will come to the fourth interpretive sign. To the left and right of the sign, you should see narrow trails leading out through the trees opening out to views of the Hudson, Catskills, Mt. Merino, and the Rip Van Winkle Bridge.


Back on the main trail, continue on until the path forks. To the right is the roadway leading up to the parking lot. Head left, and you will be on a winding downhill path towards North Road. You will read a T, with interpretive sign five. To the left is North Road, which will take you on a half mile sojourn through the woods to the North entrance off Route 23. This was the original main entrance, but it is now closed to traffic.


Head back to sign five and continue straight along the trail, which is now Shale Drive. It is also sometimes referred to as Lower Farm Road. After half a mile, you will come to Cosy Cottage. This was used as the Church's home before Olana was built. Beyond the cottage are the Barnyard, Kitchen Garden, the lower parking lot, and a number of picnic tables. Interpretive signs six, seven, and eight detail the various landmarks. Off in the field, beyond Cosy Cottage, are the ruins of the Ice House.


Far off to your left, you may notice two picnic tables in a field encircled by trees. You can get into this area by breaks in the tree line at the north and south ends of the small field. The northern end of the area is also the start of an unmarked trail. This trail will meet up shortly with a small stream. If you turn and follow the water to your right, you can watch it cascade down small rapids. It is tough going through here, with dense woods full of thorny bushes, and you won't be able to go very far. If you attempt to continue heading along the main trail, you'll hit the neighboring private property. All-in-all, this area is not worth the time, and I mention it only to save any would-be travelers the painful scratches.


Back over by the barn, continue along the trail as it heads to the lake. Turn left onto Pond Road, which will take you around the 10 acre man-made body of water. I've seen people both swim and fish here, but neither seems appropriate to the venue. After a short ways, you will see a wooden dock. Beyond is a small and narrow trail that heads up to the right and to a small picnic area overlooking the water.


Follow the trail a little ways further, and you will notice another small trail leading off to the right. This heads to the waters edge and gives a great view of the house. Just beyond this vista, the trail will fork. Head to the left along Crown Hill Road. This road will take you up the top of Crown Hill (and interpretive sign 10) with a gentle, winding slope. During the days of Frederic Church, this hill was clear of growth and visitors could clearly see the surrounding landscape. Today, only Olana up on the hill is visible.


To head back down the hill, you can follow the trail as it sweeps back around and down the hill, or you can take a shortcut and head straight in front of you down the hill. A short ways down, you will see a trail to your left which takes you back to the Crown Hill Road.


Back by the lake, head to your left and continue along Pond Road. You will soon reach interpretive sign nine, and the trail will fork again. Head to your left and you will be going towards Red Hill. The trail will head along to the edge of a hill, with the Rip Van Winkle Bridge visible through the trees. The path will curve towards the left and fork. Keep as far right as you can and follow the narrow path along the edge of the hill. Not far up the trail you will break out of the woods and have an unobstructed view of the surrounding area. This vista is perhaps even more grand than the one up by the house.


Continue along the trail until you see cabins. The trail will now double back along a higher path. Head back to the lake and turn left, following the road as it complete the circle around the pond. You can now head back to your car by whatever route you desire.


Olana is truly one of the most fantastic parks in the area, second in my mind only to Vanderbilt. The home is both exquisitely beautiful and utterly different from the other mansions along the Hudson. The trails are well maintained, easy to follow, and illuminate worthwhile landmarks and vantage points. The view is beyond breathtaking, and lacks in nothing.


But if you leave Olana still wanting more, I encourage you to head further north on Route 9G. About a half mile up the road, you will come upon a pull-off on your right. I really like the view from here, and encourage you to take a look. Continue on, and head towards the bridge. Right before you get on the bridge, you'll see a small dirt parking area on the right. Park here, and you can walk across the bridge for some great views. Pets, camcorders, and photography are not allowed. However, as long as you don't take hundreds of photos, and your name isn't Muhammad, you probably won't be bothered about the last thing.


If you'd like additional information about this park, please visit http://www.olana.org/ or http://nysparks.state.ny.us/sites/info.asp?siteID=19. Joyous Journeying!