Outdoor Excursions

I only went out for a walk and finally concluded to stay out till sundown, for going out, I found, was really going in. - John Muir

Name:
Location: Hyde Park, New York, United States

Sunday, June 04, 2006

Montgomery Place

Montgomery Place is a National Historic Landmark and a member of the Historic Hudson Valley network, which also includes Sunnyside, Kykuit, Philipsburg Manor, Union Church, and Van Cortlandt Manor. The 434 acre estate boasts extensive gardens, a large arboretum, expansive orchards, and a classic revival mansion, as well as natural features such as the Saw Kill River and waterfall, and views of the Hudson River, Catskills, and Tivoli South Bay.


The park is located on River Road in Annandale-on-Hudson. If you are coming from Hyde Park/Rhinebeck, head north on Route 9G. The park is 3 miles north of the Kingston-Rhinecliff Bridge. Take a left onto River Road at the flashing yellow light, and bear to your left. The park is shortly up the road on your right. Montgomery Place is open weekends from May through October, from 10am to 5pm. Please be aware NO DOGS are allowed on the premises.


After turning onto the grounds, you will drive past the orchards and farm complex still in operation at the estate. Fruit from these orchards is sold at a nearby stand on Route 9G. Continue along the road to the parking lot next to the Visitor's Center.


Head into the gift shop in order to purchase a pass to tour the grounds. Admission to the grounds is $5 for adults, $3 for children 5 to 7, and free for children under 5. Season passes can also be purchased for $15. You will also find a helpful trail guide here, as well as a pamphlet about the Arboretum. An audio tour, which is free with admission, can also be picked up here and coincides with the numbered markers you will see along the trails. A video is also offered for viewing.


Head out the back and down the stairs. Follow the trail here as it takes you in a diagonal direction towards marker 2. Take a left and follow the trail as it passes the coach house. This beige colored building was designed by Alexander Jackson Davis in 1859. Like the mansion, it was done in classic revival style.


Continue along the right-most path and you soon come to the Rough Garden, which will be on your left. This, along with the Formal Gardens, was designed by Violetta White Delafield in the early 20th century. Take a left into the garden, following the stone pathway. You may note this is labeled with marker 16. I personally don't understand their decision to put this at the end of the tour, so I have rearranged the order. Of course, there is nothing wrong with their sequence, although it includes some confusing overlaps.


The Rough Gardens include an artificial brook, trickling waterfall, meandering stone pathways, and naturalistic plantings of flowers. Frogs sunbathe next to the small pool, and croak angrily before jumping underwater if you get too close. Continue up the steps to reach the Elipse.


The Elipse, which consists of an oval patterned pool encircled by hemlock trees, is used as a transition between the wilder Rough Garden to the more controlled geometric Formal Gardens. Head into the Formal Gardens and take time to explore the various pathways. The greenhouse and potting shed still stand alongside the gardens.


After you have finished in the gardens, head left down the pathway towards the Squash Court. Bear to the right when the trail forks (to the left heads towards private residences) and you will pass marker 24. Once used as the Squash Court, it has now been renovated into a restroom.


Continue down the path to the mansion. Head to the front of the house and wander around the circular trail which offers views of the classic revival mansion. Originally built between 1804 and 1805 by Janet Livingston Montgomery in the federal style, the house was redesigned by Alexander Jackson Davis between the 1840s and 1860s for the subsequent generations of Livingstons. The interior is currently closed for restoration.


Head to the right of the mansion and around to the back. From here you will get a gorgeous view of the Hudson River and Catskills. Although obstructed in spots by the tree line, it only serves to enhance the beauty of the spot. Walk down the steps and head left to pick up the West Lawn Trail. This mowed grass trail circles around to pass alongside the edge of a pond. Right after the pond, take a left into the woods to follow the trail to some views of the Tivoli South Bay. (If you wish to shorten your walk, you can stay on the mowed grass path that circles to the right and back towards the mansion.)


After circling back around, the West Lawn Trail will intersect the Saw Kill Trail. Take the left fork and follow this path along an 80 foot descend to the bottom of a ravine. Be careful along this trail, which is steep at points and very muddy after rainfall.


At the bottom of the hill you will be able to view the Lower Falls of the Saw Kill River as it heads out towards Tivoli South Bay. After you have finished at the falls, follow the trail as it heads uphill. After less than a quarter mile, you will come to a fork. Take the left fork to head towards the lake.


Shortly along this path, you will come to another fork. Head to the left and downhill, and you will soon reach the Bath House and a small Lake that was once used for swimming. There is also a waterfall and some rapids below the lake.


Head back up the hill until you reach the fork you just passed. Go to your left and you will shortly reach some rapids that lie above the lake. When you are finished here, go all the way back to the first fork and head straight.


After a little ways you will come out of the forest. You are now in the vicinity of the Arboretum. The Tree Walk pamphlet details where to find the various species of trees, such as White Oak, Red Oak, Sweetgum, Tuliptree, Dogwood, Black Locust, Sycamore, Amur Corktree, Weeping Hemlock, European Beech, and Cucumber Magnolia. The large assemblage of picnic tables in the area also makes this spot a lovely picnic area.


When you have finished here, head in the direction of the Visitor's Center. Right before you reach it, you should see a sign for the South Woods Trail off to your right. This quarter mile trail (each way) takes you along a gentle slope to the Hudson River. The end of the trail has been overflowed by a stream, so you'll have to sidestep the mud and water to get to the stone stairs that will take you down to the best view in the park.


You have now seen the whole park, and can head back up the path to your car. Although the pamphlet estimates the time it will take to see the whole estate at four or more hours, this is probably assuming a leisurely stroll. I was able to see everything in slightly over two hours at a moderate pace.


Although I was slightly annoyed at the limited hours that the park is open, the admission fee, and the NO DOG rule, Montgomery Place was a highly enjoyable visit with some very impressive views and well-maintained landscape. Both man-made and natural landmarks make this park a must-see.


If you'd like to learn more about this park, and the other parks in the Historic Hudson Valley network, please go to http://www.hudsonvalley.org/montgomeryplace/index.htm. Vigorous Vaulting!


Saturday, June 03, 2006

Locust Grove

Locust Grove was the home of Samuel F. B. Morse and is a National Historic Landmark. It consists of 150 acres with over 3 miles of hiking trails. Within the property is the Annette Innis Young Memorial Wildlife Sanctuary, which houses various forms of wildlife such as ducks, heron, warblers, finches, vieros, thrushes, deer, squirrels, rabbits, opossums, foxes and coyotes.


Locust Grove is located directly off Route 9 in Poughkeepsie, two miles south of the Mid-Hudson Bridge. If you are coming from Hyde Park, the home will be on your right. The entrance is located next to a traffic light. The park is open from 8am to dusk year-round. Make sure to note as well that NO DOGS are allowed on the park grounds.


After parking, proceed into the Visitor's Center. This is open from 10am to 5pm, from May through November. Directly inside the entrance, you will notice a wall filled with pamphlets. Of particular interest are the two maps of the park that are available. One is the Self-Guided Tour, which is particularly helpful in identifying man-made points of interest. The Trail Guide & Suggested Walking Routes is much more valuable when walking through the trails within the Sanctuary.


Located within the Visitor's Center is the Morse Gallery, which includes photos, paintings by Morse, telegraph equipment (including a play version), and other memorabilia. Admission to the exhibit gallery, which also includes a video, is $5 for visitors over 18. A gift shop is also located in the Visitor's Center.


Tours of the mansion, available from 10am to 3pm from May through November, begin at the Visitor's Center and last about 90 minutes. They cost $9 for adults and $5 for children 6 to 18. This fee also includes admission to the Morse exhibit and the orientation video.

The home was originally occupied by John and Isabella Montgomery, who built the home in 1830 after acquiring the land from the previous owners, the Livingstons. The Montgomerys sold the estate to Morse in 1847. The house was originally a Federal-style home, but Morse employed the help of architect Alexander Jackson Davis to develop Locust Grove into a Tuscan villa. William and Martha Young purchased the home from the Morse family in 1901, after renting it as a summer home for five years. They added an additional wing to the estate.

I took the tour of the mansion some years ago, and remember being very disappointed. Because the home was owned by the Youngs after Morse's death, how the interior actually looked during his residence is for the most part unknown. Further, many of the furnishings were either taken by the Morse family or were sold. The home is therefore more of an exhibit of the Youngs' home than that of Morse.


After you have finished exploring the Visitor's Center, head out the back door and to your right, toward the main gardens and the Gardener's Cottage. The cottage was built in 1880 by Samuel Morse's son, William. The layout of the garden was designed by the Youngs. It has a variety of flowers, including peonies and roses, and lovely archways.


Take your first left and follow along the edge of the garden. A grassy area to your left will allow you to cut through the gardens and underneath an archway to reach the Tool House beyond. To the right of the Tool House you can also see the Greenery. Beyond the Tool House is the Vegetable Garden, within which you can take a stroll. Additional information about this garden can be found in the pamphlet entitled Heritage Vegetable Garden, located inside the Visitor's Center.


After touring the gardens, head back to the straight path in front of the Gardener's Cottage and follow it as it heads towards the house. If you head underneath the porte-cochere of the home, you will be able to view an old carriage and examine the dog statues to each side of the staircase. Continue on the path to the left of the house, and it will pass the Geometric Garden. Here flowers were planted to form circular patterns.


Past the Geometric Garden, follow the path to the left as it takes a rectangular course around the back lawn of the house. You will shortly pass a small statue on your left, which looks to be of George Washington. There is no information about it in the park literature.

Further along the trail you will come to a bench, from where you can get a view of the Hudson and the rolling hills in-between. Continue along the path and you will come to a cluster of buildings. The first building you will approach is the Carriage House, which now houses a restroom for visitors. This structure was most likely build by the first owners of the homestead, the Montgomerys. The side barn was later added by the Youngs. A pony shed and ice house are also located in this area.


Continue along the path past the buildings, and then take the trail to your left which slopes back and downhill. This is the start of the Lane Loop, a 1.2 mile trail and the main connection to all of the other trails in the park. If you don't have a trail map yet, you can pick up one from the information kiosk at the start of this trail.


A short way up this trail you will pass a pet cemetery, home to some of the Young family pets. Next to this is a picnic area (because I like to relax and have a sandwich next to a cemetery, don't you?). Follow this dirt path down the hill, and you'll come to another pet cemetery on your right. You will see a deer fence ahead of you. Head through the unlocked portion of the gate to enter the Wildlife Sanctuary and major portion of the trails.


Take the trail to the right; you will circle back around to this point. Follow the trail as it heads downhill, and enjoy the sounds of the small stream next to the path which follows your descent. You will soon come upon a barn next to a large open meadow. This barn was built by the Montgomerys, and then expanded by the Morse and Young families. Remnants of gates and fences from the old farm complex, which included a farmhouse, paddock and pasture, can also be found in the vicinity.


Continue down the hill, passing alongside stone walls, until you reach a crossroads. To your right is the Copper Mine Ridge Trail, a .3 mile trail which takes you through marshes and ends with climbes of the Hudson River and Blue Point (on the opposite shore). This trail used to be a road adjoining Locust Grove and two neighboring estates: Edgehill and Southwood. You can either take this trail or continue straight along Lane Loop. I suggest you do the former, as it is a more scenic route.


Shortly along the Copper Mine Trail you may notice a path headed uphill on your right. This trail meanders through the woods and up to a gate at the edge of the adjoining private property. It offers no scenic views, and you will be unable to proceed further due to the gate.


Near the end of Copper Mine Trail, another path will branch off to the right. This is the Sunfish Cove Trail. It is a .2 mile (one way) trail that follows the edge of Sunfish Cove. The trailguide's mention that "portions of this trail are narrow or near cliff edges" is a gross understatement. Although the beginning of the trail starts off easy enough, and is in fact rather wide, it soon begins to narrow significantly and take sharp inclines along the edge of the cliff. Additionally, since there are no trail markers, it is hard to distinguish where the man-made trail ends and animal trails begin. If you choose to take this trail, I would suggest turning around as soon as the trail begins to narrow. There is not much to gain from continuing on.


Returning to Copper Mine Trail, continue on until you reach Lane Loop again. Head straight along this trail until it forks. To the right is the Saw Mill Trail. Just like with the Copper Mine, you can remain on the Lane Loop (which is an easier stroll) or take the side trail. If you head along the Saw Mill Trail, you'll shortly come to the crest of a hill which overlooks the Hudson River and has a view of the Mid-Hudson Bridge.


To continue on this trail, head behind the bench and down the gentle downhill slope beyond. Do not continue to the left of the bench and down the steep hill. It is a difficult descent, and there is no trail to follow at its base.


Towards the end of this .2 mile long trail, you will come to the site of Henry Livingston, Jr.'s sawmill. An interpretive sign points of where it used to stand. Follow the rail as it passes alongside a ravine and meets up with the Lane Loop again.


Follow the Lane Loop about .1 miles until the trail forks. Head to your left along the Lakeside Trail and enjoy the views of Oak Lake. This man-made body of water was created by the Youngs in 1900 for swimming and boating, as well as for harvesting ice in the winter. You will also get a view of the house up on the hill.


When the trail forks again, stay alongside the lake by heading over the small wooden bridge and joining the Cascade Trail. (Staying on the Lakeside Trail will bring you very shortly to the start of the Copper Mine Trail.) The Cascade Trail, a .1 mile stroll, follows along a stream that forms a small waterfall. This was a favorite spot of Samuel Morse.


When you come to an intersection, go to the right along Lane Loop. You will shortly see the Ravine Trail on your left. This .3 mile trail leads through groves of hemlock and flowering dogwood at the edge of a ravine. It will also take you to Hemlock Trail, a .1 mile trail which takes you closer to the ravine. You can either take this horseshoe shaped trail to your right, or continue along the Ravine Trail. Towards the end of the Ravine Trail, you will pass alongside a wetland.


At the end of this trail, you can choose to either head to your left along the Lane Loops Spur and continue back up the hill along the Lane Loop Trail, or you can go right along the slightly longer Eagle Trail. The Eagle Trail was constructed by Eagle Scouts, and follows along the foot of the bluff. This .4 mile trail passes underneath oak and tulip trees, and heads over four flat bridges erected over the streams which flow down the hill.


Back on the Lane Loop, follow the trail uphill and back to the deer fence at the entrance to the sanctuary. Once through, you can either choose to stay on the Lane Loop and return to the top of the hill, or follow the Grade Road Trail to your left. This .2 mile trail passes alongside the neighboring private home and carriage house. It follows the bottom of a ravine amongst tall tulip trees and ends near an old entrance to the park. You have now seen all of the grounds at Locust Grove and can return to your car, or to the museum shop.


Despite living in this area all of my life, and passing the home many times every week, I had never toured the trails. I was immensely impressed by their beauty, the rugged yet well maintained aspect of the pathways, and the abundance of wildlife. Walking amongst the towering treetops, which set the forest floor into deep shadow; listening to the variety of bird calls reverberating throughout the woods; being startled by the frantic chipmunk darting across the trail; unexpectedly approaching a raccoon; being followed by a curious deer - all made the experience immensely enjoyable.


Three criticisms I have for this park only, and very minor ones. The first is the abominable Sunfish Cove Trail, which either needs to be given some trail markers or the path needs to be made more recognizable. The second is the NO DOG rule, that although is completely reasonable due to the development of a wildlife sanctuary, should be put somewhere on their website to notify visitors prior to coming. Thirdly, although both maps are greatly detailed and helpful in their own right, they should somehow be incorporated into one in order to present a coherent message. All-in-all, however, I am very excited to have found another enjoyable park in the area near the ranks of Vanderbilt and Olana.


If you'd like to learn more about Locust Grove, please go to http://www.morsehistoricsite.org/index.html. Relaxing Rambling!